Welcome to Learn to Catch Bass. We built this site to help beginning anglers get started and to help experienced anglers fine tune their methods. Feel free to comment on the topics or email any of the authors if you have a question that you want answered and we will try to help you out as much as possible.

April 26, 2009

22nd Century Triple Trout

Today there are thousands of choices for swimbaits out there. The trouble is knowing where to start. I have been fishing them for a short period of time but I have to admit I have thoroughly enjoyed it. From the information I could gather from Swimbait nation you get what you pay for when it comes to swimbaits. I also found this out first hand when I started out last year. I bought a Reaction Strike bass candy. When I got the bait it was scratched up bad on the side so I contacted Tackle Warehouse and they sent me a second one. Now I had two, one just scratched up. These baits had two different bait schemes and had different colored eyes which demonstrated inconsistency. They were supposedly the same scheme. In one outing with these two baits the tail fell off one of them and about mid way on the second one fell off. Basically both baits fell apart in one trip without so much as a fish caught on them. I am sure I could have sent them back but who really wants to send baits back over and over again. Those two baits were about 20 bucks each (although I received one free). This prompted me to spend the extra cash and get a more reputable brand. After some research I settled in on the triple trout.

My first triple trout was a six inch in a light trout pattern and cost me about 70 dollars. I live in Louisiana where there aren’t any rainbow trout and I am a stickler for matching the hatch. I did throw these baits for several trips and even caught a small fish on it without any signs it would fall apart. I contacted a good friend of mine who paints baits for a living and asked him if he would do me a favor and repaint the bait. He painted the bait in a really cool baby bass pattern. Since the repaint I have caught probably 15 fish on this bait and it barely has so much as hook rash. This bait has a fairly smooth s action and runs really good right out of the package. The only adjustment you have to keep up with on these baits is tweaking the tail from time to time. The tail acts as a keel and if it gets twisted it will run slanted. I have since bought several other triple trouts, had them painted,  and had success with each and everyone of them. I have yet to have one fall apart or have one I could not get tuned to run straight. These baits are built with quality components and are intended to catch a lot of fish without failure. These baits also hold true running even with the addition of a quality repaint. One of my triple trouts came from another fisherman and he had caught somewhere around 40 fish on this bait. I had the bait repainted and it looks as good as new and runs just as good as a brand new one. I have already caught several fish on it and intend to catch a ton more once the season is in full swing. I personally have not had to deal with returning a bait that runs bad, but my understanding is they fully stand behind these baits and will promptly take care of the situation.

7.5 lb on a 7 inch custom painted triple trout

7.5 lb on a 7 inch custom painted triple trout

These baits can be ran with or without a clip or with or without a split ring. Each method offers a different action to the bait. Also the hook eyes are actually a barrel swivil and allow the hooks to spin freely and aid in keeping fish from throwing the bait. I can say I have landed roughly 30 fish including a 7 to 7.5 lber on them without losing a fish yet. Knock on wood of course but I feel very confident in keeping big fish hooked up with these baits. Be sure to upgrade to quality hooks and check them often to avoid heartbreaks on the water. Overall I would have to say that the 22nd Century Triple Trout is an outstanding bait and a good starter bait to get into swimbait fishing.

April 26, 2009

How to catch big bass on a deep diving crankbait

One method for catching BIG bass is cranking a deep diving crank bait. Bass are always looking for an easy meal and these baits meandering around bottom offer bass just that……. so they think. There are many productive ways for using a deep diving crankbait and a lot of different tricks to maximize success with them. The most valuable tip I can offer is keep these baits in contact with something.  That being said let’s “dive” into big bait cranking.

Bait Choice

8.5 lb bass that ate a big mudbug

8.5 lb bass that ate a big mudbug

As with most aspect of bass fishing it is important to use quality tools for what you want to do. You want a crankbait that holds up well to vicious strikes, bouncing off objects, and powerful fighting fish. Look for quality hooks and split rings or plan on swapping them out. My personal favorites are Norman DD 22’s, Luhr Jenson Hot Lips, and the Rapala DT series. There are tons of others that work equally as well although sometimes the fish seem to want a certain type. Remember each crankbait is unique despite tolerances in production and each one may run slightly different. If you find one that seems to catch fish better than others try to hang onto it. When choosing a size crankbait think about the water column you intend to fish and want to cover. I chose a bait that will run deeper than the max depth I intend to fish so it will stay in contact with bottom as much as possible. The Hot Lips seems to be one of the deepest diving crankbaits out there. The DD 22’s run on average down around 14 to 16 feet. The Hot lips dives down to 18 to 24 feet. The DT series  dive to the depth they are marked for. For example the DT16 dives down to about 16 feet. Most crankbaits are rated based on using 10 lb test line. I usually use 8 to 12 lb test flourocarbon for deep cranking. The flourocarbon line is abrasive resistant, sinks in the water, and has low stretch.

Where to fish them

Which leads into where to fish these baits. Look for areas close to creek channels such as sloping points or humps that fall off into a creek. Larger fish tend to stay close to deep water and staying close to deeper creeks increases your chances of catching quality fish. The best areas will have some sort of cover for the crankbait to interact with on the edge of the deeper water. I like grass edges and stump fields that fall off into a main creek bend. You have three ways of approaching these areas. One is to throw up into the shallow and crank the bait down the slope. Another is to throw into the deep water and crank up into the shallow water digging your way up the slope. Another which I will usually change to once I find the best break line is to throw parallel to that depth and try to keep the bait in the target zone as long as possible. I can’t tell you which way is best because it changes from one situation to the other. I usually start by cranking down the slope. Then switch to parallel. I usually opt for cranking up the slope under heavy fishing pressure or when the fish are actively feeding. Let’s talk about how to fish these baits for success.

How to fish them

The main method, which works fine in most situations, is a steady cranking retrieve. You want to make long casts to allow the bait more time to reach the optimal depth range. Keep your rod tip close to the surface of the water and start cranking quickly until you think you have hit the deepest it will go. Then slow down the pace to a steady retrieve and just try to slowly bump the bait across cover and really feel it through everything. With some experience you will learn how different types of cover feel like as you crank the bait along. Often grass will feel like a soggy sensation which unfortunately is also what some bites feel like. Brush usually feels like sporadic twitches and ticks. Rock and stumps feel like you bounced the bait on something. You usually feel it as a bounces and then you feel the bait reset. Rock tends to feel sharper than wood. Another approach is to start and stop the bait. Sometimes a bass is following the bait and when it stops suddenly they will commit to eating it. When fishing like this I usually like to incorporate my pauses right after I hit an object. This tends to look like a stunned bait fish and often results in crushing strikes. One less common but equally effective method is what is known as worming a crankbait. This tactic pretty well requires a suspending crankbait like the Hot lips. You crank the bait down hard to get it to the bottom. Then you slowly lift your rod as if you were dragging a worm or Carolina rig across bottom. Lift and reel up the slack, then repeat. Bites can be difficult to detect on this approach sometimes. Speaking of which how do any crankbait bites feel?

The Bite

Well sometimes they simply load the rod with weight. Sometimes they unmistakably jar the fire out of it. Sometimes it seems like you completely loose contact with the bait and are simply reeling in slack line. Sometimes it feels just like it bounced off a stump or rock. You simply have to get acquainted with what everything else feels like and anything else could be fish. When worming a crankbait bites vary from a very light tick that feels like a bluegill peck to a gut wrenching strike that almost snatches the rod from your hands. I would estimate that 95% of your bites on a crankbait come when the bait deflects off of something. You will feel it bounce a rock then as it starts to reset WHAM!!!! That is why you want a bait that dives deeper than you are fishing so that you keep the bait deflecting and bouncing off as much cover as you possible can. When I feel that bait bouncing and bumping along I feel a huge boost of confidence knowing the next thing it ricochets off of could be holding a huge fish.Why do big fish eat these baits so well?

Why they work

There are several reasons big deep diving crankbaits catch so many good fish. First, they go where the big fish are. Big fish tend to move deeper away from dangers of the shallows into areas they feel more comfortable. Second, they are a big meal. Big fish view a big crankbait as a meal that will give them the most bang for their bite. Third, these baits cause reaction strikes as well as feeding strikes. Often the bass are not actively feeding when you catch them on these baits. They are lying around by their favorite log, rock or stump when this bait fish comes by and smashes into their cover. It looks like a bait fish that hit something and then got disoriented creating a prime opportunity to get an easy meal. Big fish don’t get to be big fish by not taking full advantage of an easy meal.

Color Choices

There are so many color choices it can be overwhelming to decide what to use. In stained water and deeper darker water situations I think color choice fairly simple. I stick to basic white with a black back, chartreuse and blue back, and a couple of simple crawfish colors such as red and black. When the water is clean and clear and the sun is bright and high, I like to match the hatch a little bit more and use more realistic colors and patterns. Chrome is an excellent color in cleaner water conditions because it has good flash and reflects the surrounding colors. A clear bait is also an excellent choice because it blends into it’s surroundings. It appears to be food to a fish but they can’t get a definitive read on what the bait is. If I know the forage base then I try to get a bait to match as closely as possible. If I have a certain bait fish I need matched I will often get Sixth Sense Lures to match my crankbaits to give me as much advantage as possible. Sometimes it seems that very small details can make a huge difference in triggering bites.Bluegill Mann's 20 plus

Bonus Tactics

Here is one more way I catch some good fish with big crankbaits. Think shallow water and a big bait. I often fish my DD22’s in water as shallow as 5 foot deep or less. When I run this bait that shallow I can keep it in contact with the bottom almost the entire retrieve. Imagine a bluegill pattern crankbait rooting around a bedding area in five foot of water. How often do you think a BIG bass will let a bluegill dig, dive and rattle through it’s bed. Not often I can assure you. When you run those baits that shallow it looks like a fish digging along bottom trying to stir up crawfish, worms, and anything else they can find to eat. It also looks like a fish trying to eat eggs in a bed. I have won several big bass checks cranking a big crankbait like a DD22 in water 5 foot deep or shallower. Try a crawfish pattern in 2 to 3 ft of water real slow at night. The drawback with shallow cranking a big bait is you have to fish them where there isn’t alot of grass shallow. They don’t dig through grass real well. I hope these tips get you well on your way to cranking up some big fish. If you have any furthure questions don’t hesitate to ask.

April 25, 2009

Shimano Crucial Rods

The Shimano Crucial rod series is an excellent buy and a top quality rod. I have had several so far and all  have been outstanding. Also the customer service has been great. One is a 7′11″ medium cranking stick. This rod does extremely well for cranking those big lipped crankbaits at depth. I use mine for DD 22, Hot Lips, and the old big Mud bugs. It really makes cranking those big baits alot easier without sacrificing sensitivity. The rods are light and strong. I have had fish over eight lbs on my cranking stick and even straightened hooks out without any issue. I also have a 6′6″ medium heavy which I use for fishing weightless worms and light texas rigs. I have slammed this rod hard into countless fish including one 12lber and a 9 lber. I have had no issue with this rod either. I also have another rod which the rod tip broke off one day on the hookset. I contacted the store I bought the rod from and had no problem swapping the rod over the counter for a new one. I would definetly rate the Crucial series as one of my favorite rods. They have good strength, sensitivity, and a good return policy.

April 25, 2009

Progressive Boat Insurance Good or Bad?

Choosing a boat insurance is hard these days. There are so many companies trying to pull your business. But how do you know who will take care of you and who will leave you on your own. I want to give you a story about one insurance company who apparently  has wonderful service with auto insurance but they are lacking greatly on boat insurance. Let’s start at the beginning of this process. My motor dropped two cylinders while running on Sam Rayburn. I took my boat to an Certified Evinrude mechanic. Who is also a very reputable mechanic in this area. After a full inspection of my motor the mechanic determined the cause. He stated that a small peble was sucked into the water intake and held the thermostat open. During the warmer part of the year this wouldn’t have been such a problem but with cool temps it becomes a much bigger issue. Basically right from the beginning cool water was being pushed through the cylinders and never allowed the motor to warm up. The first two cylinders seized up. The mechanic said that the water is coolest coming through the first cylinders and warms the further along it gets through the block. That is why the first cylinders are the ones that seized. The mechanic fully tested out the oil pump which was virtually brand new. The oil pump test out perfectly fine. Furthermore, fuel was removed from the cylinders which definitively contained oil. Demonstrating that the cylinders did NOT run lean.

Now the dealings with progressive. First off I received a call from a claims rep in my state. But, because my boat shop was just over the state line she transferred the claim to a different rep. Once it was given to him I did not receive so much as a phone call to update me on the status for more than a week. I knew it had been looked at because I had been in touch with my mechanic and the rep had came by there. After a week I tried to track down someone who could help me with my claim. I made about 5 phone calls and got three messaging systems claiming whoever I was calling was going to be out for days. The claim rep was going to be gone for more than a week. His team leader gone for several days. Then their supervisor was apparently out also. Finally late that evening the supervisor returned my call. I explained to him that I needed to have this taken care of as quickly as possible because I had a major tournament the next weekend in which I had already registered. At this point an agent had already went and spoke to the mechanic and taken photos of the block.

Ok, here is where it really gets frustrating. The supervisor makes repeated claims that the block looks like it ran lean. Now for those of you who are mechanics out there the cylinders were black which from my understanding means they were definitely not deprived of oil. They were not burnt as if the water pump wasn’t working. They requested a fuel sample from the cylinder’s which my mechanic gave them and which obviously had fuel mixed with oil as it was supposed to be. I asked the supervisor “If my motor seized due to something being sucked into the intake would it be covered”. The supervisor said “yes”.  Although the mechanic had already went through and determined what caused the motor to seize the supervisor still continued to dispute the findings. He continued to claim it looked like it ran lean despite multiple instances of proof that it in fact showed it did NOT run lean. I asked the supervisor could I get my mechanic to go ahead and start putting the block back together so I could hopefully get back on the water by the next weekend for my tournament. The supervisor told me they were going to get a marine engineer to come look at the motor so it would be some time the next week when they could come look at it and the motor needed to stay opened up until they could look at it.

Let’s recap. Blown motor, certified and reputable mechanic determines cause, and major tournament the next weekend. Determined that something sucked into the intake cause the malfunction. Now not only are they disputing my mechanic they are also making the process take even longer insuring that I would not make my tournament. Sounds just like the wonderful commercial on TV of a quick claims service right. I could understand possible disputing a mechanic who was not certified and worked out of his house or something. They either A assume the mechanic is a liar, or B assume he just doesn’t know what he is talking about. I would like to know what mechanic school these agents went to. I want to know what credentials they have to deem them capable of arguing with a certified mechanic that works on motors for a living. The final straw for me was when the supervisor wanted me to leave my motor laid open and wait for a marine engineer to come analyze my motor when it had already been analyzed by a certified mechanic and it would make certain I would not make my tournament. The repair was only going to cost around 1100 dollars of which 250 was my deductible anyhow. I called the supervisor and told him I did not appreciate the way my claim was being handled and would like to cancel this claim and cancel my account. I have to wonder if this is what they wanted to happen in the first place. If you frustrate a customer enough they will give up and cancel the claim.

Through this process I spoke to several other mechanics and seemed to get the similar responses from each in relation to Progressive insurance. Two mechanics said they would not do claim work for progressive. One mechanic said he was getting very close to not doing claim work for them. Another mechanics response about Progressive insurance was “Good Luck everything with them is mechanical failure”.  I started asking questions to these mechanics to determine what insurance companies where good to deal with. I got the same responses from all the mechanics. The first choice is State Farm. Then second was Farm Bureau. So if you have the options I would reccommend skipping progressive for boat insurance and go right the the better choices of State Farm or Farm Bureau. I hope this review helps keep people from having the same experiences as I did.

April 1, 2009

Rejuvenade

What are the fish in your boat worth? I know in mine at any given time the difference in a dead fish and a lively one is hundreds to thousands of dollars. I have tried different methods for keeping fish alive over the years and one of the best things I have found so far is a product called Rejuvenade. It usually doesn’t hurt to add some ice also. Ice helps in two ways. One, as it dissolves it releases oxygen. Secondly, cooler water can hold more oxygen. It is important to keep fish in good health if you intend to release them. To help with keeping these fish in the best possible condition use Rejuvenade or a similar product any time you can. These products contain dissolved oxygen and a mix of vitamins and nutrients that help to stabilize a fish. It helps to protect the protective slim coat on bass, which is essential to preventing infections. If you want to research deeper into the benefits of Rejuvenade click the image and check out their site as well.

a bottle of rejuvenade

April 1, 2009

Where do you put your check stick

How many people do you know who have lost fish while trying to check and see if it is legal or not. I know a lot of the new boats have them somewhere easy to find and get out. What could happen to those fish when you pull the check stick out, lay it out on the deck of the boat, then lose your grip on the fish? Well I have seen too many times that loose fish finds their way back in the lake. Here is an idea screw the check stick against the kick board below the console. It will sit relatively flat so you don’t trip over it and it will always be handy to use. On top of that, if you lose grip on the fish it has no where to go. This boat modification takes minutes, but in my opinion it is worth a lot more. Furthermore, I like to store my cull tags under the console as well. This makes it real easy to check fish and tag them in a controlled environment. Here is a picture of my install I hope this helps.

Checkstick screwed into the floor board under the console

Checkstick screwed into the floor board under the console

April 1, 2009

Fishing for a limit or one BIG bite

When you set out on the lake for a day worth of fishing what are you going after? If you catch me on one day I may be targeting a healthy 5 fish limit. But if you catch me when I’m fun fishing I will be looking for one BIG bite. There are certain things you can do to target either BIG fish or numbers.8 plus on a big bait

First we will cover fishing for numbers. Most fish up to a certain size tend to hold in schools and can usually be patterned more easily than larger fish. Once fish get over a certain size, which I feel is different from lake to lake, they will tend to separate from the schools and become loners.  When targeting small fish I tend to use smaller baits such as 7 inch and smaller worms,  small lizards or 1/4 oz spinnerbaits. Another option is small crankbaits such as a bandit 100 or 200 series. You can usually catch numbers of smaller fish together in the same area. They tend to be in more predictable areas usually around bait fish. It is easier to locate smaller fish on a graph than larger fish due to the fact that smaller fish tend to group together more often than big fish do.

Bigger fish are often hard to spot on a graph. They tend to be tight to cover or suspended over open. You may see likely structure or cover but the fish will often be real tight which would make the hard to see.  Bigger fish may be near smaller fish. Sometimes they are deeper or just a little further out than the small fish. These loners usually find the most ideal feeding area to stay in and they usually don’t venture to far from that area. They are usually in a location close to deep safe water and a shallow feeding area. Every once in a while some body gets into a good sack of fish and they pulled them all out of one spot. The best explanation for this occurance was given by Bill Murphy. Big fish stay out deep as loners but they may share feeding grounds with other big fish. It’s like going to a restaurant we may all be eating at the same place but that doesn’t mean we go home together. Same thing when big fish are feeding it is possible to find more than one together especially since the area they feed is obviously a very good area to feed. The tougher thing is when they are not actively feeding and let’s face it how often do you get to fish an “active” feed. When targeting big fish upsize your presentation and fish slow. A big fish is looking for the most bang for her buck. She would rather eat one good size meal that struggles instead of twenty small ones. I think this should get you headed in the right direction. I would like to reccommend a real good book if you want to target BIG fish. “In Persuit of Giant Bass” by Bill Murphy. It is a very educational read.