Welcome to Learn to Catch Bass. We built this site to help beginning anglers get started and to help experienced anglers fine tune their methods. Feel free to comment on the topics or email any of the authors if you have a question that you want answered and we will try to help you out as much as possible.

September 15, 2009

Alternative to using a needle to equalize a bass swim bladder

I had to post this tip on here. I have seen tons and tons of articles on bleeding a fishes swim bladder with a needle. There is an extremely effective alternative that very few people seem to be aware of. I saw this on a tv show a long time ago on Roland Martin’s show, yet for the life of me I can’t understand why it is not more commonly known. I have used this method to release and save somewhere around 50 fish. This includes a healthy 12.90 lb which is my personal best. I also successfully depressurized a bass that won big bass in a tournament that weighed 7.87 lbs. I do not have a name for this method of bladder depressurization and I did not develop it.

First what causes this over expansion of the fish’s swim bladder? What happens is the fish comes up in the water column too quickly either being pulled or swimming upward during a fight. Air in the bass swim bladder compresses as it goes deeper in the water column due to pressure from the water. This means that the air will expand as the fish rises in the water column. Bass have air in the bladder and as they come to the surface that air expands. If the fish comes up too quickly the air does not get released and sticks the fishes swim bladder too full. If the fish is immediately released often it can return to depth quickly enough for the air pressure to be relieved naturally. However, with tournament fishing the fish is often held in a live well for extended periods of time. The longer the bladder is over expanded the harder it is for the fish to recover.

The solution is simple allow the water to naturally equalize the pressure. I have setup which I keep in my boat at all times just for this occasion. For a home made version take either an old reel with a heavy cord attached. I would recommend 100 lb test to be on the safe side. You don’t want to get into another fight with that trophy you just caught. So make sure you build it heavy. For my setup I use a Cuban hand reel, but really any kind of reel will work as long as it will hold enough heavy line to sink a fish as deep as the deepest fish you catch. For me that is only around 35 feet or so. For a release only rig take a small hook and tie about an 18 inch leader line to it. On the end of the leader add ample weight to sink the fish. I use about 8 to 12 oz’s of saltwater weights. Now Tie the line from the reel to the bend of the hook so that the hook will hang pointed down. Flatten the barbs on the hook also. If you wish to use it for tournaments and release, which I do, use a high quality saltwater snap clip. I would recommend the interlocking type to prevent accidental releases. Attach the clip to the hook eye and then the leader to the snap and down to the weight. This will allow you to use the hook for release or the clip for tournaments.

To use the rig is also very simple. First, you need some deep water. I usually look for water slightly deeper than the water I caught the fish in. For release take the hook and push it down into the hard part of the nose of the fish. You want it secure enough to get the fish down before it can flop off. If you are in a tournament use a clip or in my case I used two just in case one popped open. Now sink the fish down. If you are tournament fishing hold the fish there for a little bit then SLOWLY pull the fish up . I can’t emphasize this enough S L O W L Y. If you are releasing the fish just hold the line for a little bit and you will feel the fish kicking and stuff. When you feel it has had enough time to equalize simply snatch the line sharply enough to pop the hook out of the nose of the fish and leaving the fish at that depth. Hang around for a few if it failed it shouldn’t take long to see. I have had one fish I could not get down and stay down. This fish was a 3 lb bass blown up to the size of a six lber that somebody else caught and weighed in. I had no idea how deep the fish was caught or how early in the day it was caught. Other than that I have been extremely successful with this method.

This method should work for pretty well any species of fish. Please practice catch and release often and help protect our resources.

April 26, 2009

22nd Century Triple Trout

Today there are thousands of choices for swimbaits out there. The trouble is knowing where to start. I have been fishing them for a short period of time but I have to admit I have thoroughly enjoyed it. From the information I could gather from Swimbait nation you get what you pay for when it comes to swimbaits. I also found this out first hand when I started out last year. I bought a Reaction Strike bass candy. When I got the bait it was scratched up bad on the side so I contacted Tackle Warehouse and they sent me a second one. Now I had two, one just scratched up. These baits had two different bait schemes and had different colored eyes which demonstrated inconsistency. They were supposedly the same scheme. In one outing with these two baits the tail fell off one of them and about mid way on the second one fell off. Basically both baits fell apart in one trip without so much as a fish caught on them. I am sure I could have sent them back but who really wants to send baits back over and over again. Those two baits were about 20 bucks each (although I received one free). This prompted me to spend the extra cash and get a more reputable brand. After some research I settled in on the triple trout.

My first triple trout was a six inch in a light trout pattern and cost me about 70 dollars. I live in Louisiana where there aren’t any rainbow trout and I am a stickler for matching the hatch. I did throw these baits for several trips and even caught a small fish on it without any signs it would fall apart. I contacted a good friend of mine who paints baits for a living and asked him if he would do me a favor and repaint the bait. He painted the bait in a really cool baby bass pattern. Since the repaint I have caught probably 15 fish on this bait and it barely has so much as hook rash. This bait has a fairly smooth s action and runs really good right out of the package. The only adjustment you have to keep up with on these baits is tweaking the tail from time to time. The tail acts as a keel and if it gets twisted it will run slanted. I have since bought several other triple trouts, had them painted,  and had success with each and everyone of them. I have yet to have one fall apart or have one I could not get tuned to run straight. These baits are built with quality components and are intended to catch a lot of fish without failure. These baits also hold true running even with the addition of a quality repaint. One of my triple trouts came from another fisherman and he had caught somewhere around 40 fish on this bait. I had the bait repainted and it looks as good as new and runs just as good as a brand new one. I have already caught several fish on it and intend to catch a ton more once the season is in full swing. I personally have not had to deal with returning a bait that runs bad, but my understanding is they fully stand behind these baits and will promptly take care of the situation.

7.5 lb on a 7 inch custom painted triple trout

7.5 lb on a 7 inch custom painted triple trout

These baits can be ran with or without a clip or with or without a split ring. Each method offers a different action to the bait. Also the hook eyes are actually a barrel swivil and allow the hooks to spin freely and aid in keeping fish from throwing the bait. I can say I have landed roughly 30 fish including a 7 to 7.5 lber on them without losing a fish yet. Knock on wood of course but I feel very confident in keeping big fish hooked up with these baits. Be sure to upgrade to quality hooks and check them often to avoid heartbreaks on the water. Overall I would have to say that the 22nd Century Triple Trout is an outstanding bait and a good starter bait to get into swimbait fishing.

April 26, 2009

How to catch big bass on a deep diving crankbait

One method for catching BIG bass is cranking a deep diving crank bait. Bass are always looking for an easy meal and these baits meandering around bottom offer bass just that……. so they think. There are many productive ways for using a deep diving crankbait and a lot of different tricks to maximize success with them. The most valuable tip I can offer is keep these baits in contact with something.  That being said let’s “dive” into big bait cranking.

Bait Choice

8.5 lb bass that ate a big mudbug

8.5 lb bass that ate a big mudbug

As with most aspect of bass fishing it is important to use quality tools for what you want to do. You want a crankbait that holds up well to vicious strikes, bouncing off objects, and powerful fighting fish. Look for quality hooks and split rings or plan on swapping them out. My personal favorites are Norman DD 22’s, Luhr Jenson Hot Lips, and the Rapala DT series. There are tons of others that work equally as well although sometimes the fish seem to want a certain type. Remember each crankbait is unique despite tolerances in production and each one may run slightly different. If you find one that seems to catch fish better than others try to hang onto it. When choosing a size crankbait think about the water column you intend to fish and want to cover. I chose a bait that will run deeper than the max depth I intend to fish so it will stay in contact with bottom as much as possible. The Hot Lips seems to be one of the deepest diving crankbaits out there. The DD 22’s run on average down around 14 to 16 feet. The Hot lips dives down to 18 to 24 feet. The DT series  dive to the depth they are marked for. For example the DT16 dives down to about 16 feet. Most crankbaits are rated based on using 10 lb test line. I usually use 8 to 12 lb test flourocarbon for deep cranking. The flourocarbon line is abrasive resistant, sinks in the water, and has low stretch.

Where to fish them

Which leads into where to fish these baits. Look for areas close to creek channels such as sloping points or humps that fall off into a creek. Larger fish tend to stay close to deep water and staying close to deeper creeks increases your chances of catching quality fish. The best areas will have some sort of cover for the crankbait to interact with on the edge of the deeper water. I like grass edges and stump fields that fall off into a main creek bend. You have three ways of approaching these areas. One is to throw up into the shallow and crank the bait down the slope. Another is to throw into the deep water and crank up into the shallow water digging your way up the slope. Another which I will usually change to once I find the best break line is to throw parallel to that depth and try to keep the bait in the target zone as long as possible. I can’t tell you which way is best because it changes from one situation to the other. I usually start by cranking down the slope. Then switch to parallel. I usually opt for cranking up the slope under heavy fishing pressure or when the fish are actively feeding. Let’s talk about how to fish these baits for success.

How to fish them

The main method, which works fine in most situations, is a steady cranking retrieve. You want to make long casts to allow the bait more time to reach the optimal depth range. Keep your rod tip close to the surface of the water and start cranking quickly until you think you have hit the deepest it will go. Then slow down the pace to a steady retrieve and just try to slowly bump the bait across cover and really feel it through everything. With some experience you will learn how different types of cover feel like as you crank the bait along. Often grass will feel like a soggy sensation which unfortunately is also what some bites feel like. Brush usually feels like sporadic twitches and ticks. Rock and stumps feel like you bounced the bait on something. You usually feel it as a bounces and then you feel the bait reset. Rock tends to feel sharper than wood. Another approach is to start and stop the bait. Sometimes a bass is following the bait and when it stops suddenly they will commit to eating it. When fishing like this I usually like to incorporate my pauses right after I hit an object. This tends to look like a stunned bait fish and often results in crushing strikes. One less common but equally effective method is what is known as worming a crankbait. This tactic pretty well requires a suspending crankbait like the Hot lips. You crank the bait down hard to get it to the bottom. Then you slowly lift your rod as if you were dragging a worm or Carolina rig across bottom. Lift and reel up the slack, then repeat. Bites can be difficult to detect on this approach sometimes. Speaking of which how do any crankbait bites feel?

The Bite

Well sometimes they simply load the rod with weight. Sometimes they unmistakably jar the fire out of it. Sometimes it seems like you completely loose contact with the bait and are simply reeling in slack line. Sometimes it feels just like it bounced off a stump or rock. You simply have to get acquainted with what everything else feels like and anything else could be fish. When worming a crankbait bites vary from a very light tick that feels like a bluegill peck to a gut wrenching strike that almost snatches the rod from your hands. I would estimate that 95% of your bites on a crankbait come when the bait deflects off of something. You will feel it bounce a rock then as it starts to reset WHAM!!!! That is why you want a bait that dives deeper than you are fishing so that you keep the bait deflecting and bouncing off as much cover as you possible can. When I feel that bait bouncing and bumping along I feel a huge boost of confidence knowing the next thing it ricochets off of could be holding a huge fish.Why do big fish eat these baits so well?

Why they work

There are several reasons big deep diving crankbaits catch so many good fish. First, they go where the big fish are. Big fish tend to move deeper away from dangers of the shallows into areas they feel more comfortable. Second, they are a big meal. Big fish view a big crankbait as a meal that will give them the most bang for their bite. Third, these baits cause reaction strikes as well as feeding strikes. Often the bass are not actively feeding when you catch them on these baits. They are lying around by their favorite log, rock or stump when this bait fish comes by and smashes into their cover. It looks like a bait fish that hit something and then got disoriented creating a prime opportunity to get an easy meal. Big fish don’t get to be big fish by not taking full advantage of an easy meal.

Color Choices

There are so many color choices it can be overwhelming to decide what to use. In stained water and deeper darker water situations I think color choice fairly simple. I stick to basic white with a black back, chartreuse and blue back, and a couple of simple crawfish colors such as red and black. When the water is clean and clear and the sun is bright and high, I like to match the hatch a little bit more and use more realistic colors and patterns. Chrome is an excellent color in cleaner water conditions because it has good flash and reflects the surrounding colors. A clear bait is also an excellent choice because it blends into it’s surroundings. It appears to be food to a fish but they can’t get a definitive read on what the bait is. If I know the forage base then I try to get a bait to match as closely as possible. If I have a certain bait fish I need matched I will often get Sixth Sense Lures to match my crankbaits to give me as much advantage as possible. Sometimes it seems that very small details can make a huge difference in triggering bites.Bluegill Mann's 20 plus

Bonus Tactics

Here is one more way I catch some good fish with big crankbaits. Think shallow water and a big bait. I often fish my DD22’s in water as shallow as 5 foot deep or less. When I run this bait that shallow I can keep it in contact with the bottom almost the entire retrieve. Imagine a bluegill pattern crankbait rooting around a bedding area in five foot of water. How often do you think a BIG bass will let a bluegill dig, dive and rattle through it’s bed. Not often I can assure you. When you run those baits that shallow it looks like a fish digging along bottom trying to stir up crawfish, worms, and anything else they can find to eat. It also looks like a fish trying to eat eggs in a bed. I have won several big bass checks cranking a big crankbait like a DD22 in water 5 foot deep or shallower. Try a crawfish pattern in 2 to 3 ft of water real slow at night. The drawback with shallow cranking a big bait is you have to fish them where there isn’t alot of grass shallow. They don’t dig through grass real well. I hope these tips get you well on your way to cranking up some big fish. If you have any furthure questions don’t hesitate to ask.